Monday, June 4, 2012

Build your own RC Scale UAV

Are you wondering how you can get your own drone based project or business in the air affordably?  Mesa, Arizona based Thorpe Seeop Corporation, with nearly 30 years experience manufacturing and operating drones, is making truly affordable programs and drones to help Universities, Colleges, small Research and Development organizations and even small startup companies have their own drones.

Everyone knows about the use of drones by the military.  But the military is NOT the only ones flying.  Now, you don’t have to be the military, or even a high budget research program like NASA to fly drones.  Now, you can have your own affordable drones in support of your startup company or your research or education programs.

Also, you may have business opportunities, research or education applications from flying a unique electronics payload to flying data acquisition missions for a civil engineering infrastructure project.  You might have a research contract with application to law enforcement, disaster relief, agriculture, tornado monitoring or other research projects.  Even student built and flown education projects can have completion and success assurance while remaining realistically affordable.

Thorpe Seeop offers “build it yourself” plans and kits for the most frugal of budgets, to almost ready to fly (ARF Kits) or full up, turnkey flying drone systems. You can pick and choose from their extensive list of Thorpe Seeop air vehicles by visiting or calling them at (480) 262-1051.  Thorpe will provide an Information Packet for people on how to start their own drone based research project or business for $150.  They also provide plans for various drones at just $250.  If you prefer kits, Thorpe has drone kits available starting at $2,200 and Almost Ready to Fly “ARF” Kits starting at $6,000.  This approach allows people of all budgets the flexibility to start their own drone business or perform their research project affordably and on time using aircraft with a proven record.

For Further Information, please call: Douglas Thorpe President, Thorpe Seeop Corporation 480.262.1051

Source :

Friday, June 1, 2012

Pilot Projects: 1914 Ingram Foster [July 2012]

1914 Ingram Foster: Doug enlarged Pat Tritle’s plans to build this 1914 Ingram Foster pusher biplane.  The model has fabric-covered surfaces, pull-pull cables on all controls, is powered by a Saito .65 four stroke.  The 7.5-pound bipe looks like a great flyer!

Doug Bromley – Tulsa, OK

For more Pilot Projects and on how to send your projects in, check out page 20 of April’s issue of Model Airplane News.

Source :

50% Off Deal Of The Week: Advance Aerobatics Made Easy

This high-definition DVD is our hottest yet and includes every maneuver you need to know to become an advanced airshow pilot! Plus, national Aerobatic champion John Glezellis demonstrates competition-level 3D moves that will floor you. Advanced Aerobatics Made Easy picks up where our first Aerobatics Made Easy DVD left off. Advanced maneuvers such as 8-point rolls, the shark’s tooth, inverted harriers and much more are all here captured in high definition including in-flight footage for “from the cockpit” point of view. John’s step-by-step pro setup tips, flight instructions, and 3D secrets will make you the local Hotshot Pilot!

Click Here To Watch Trailer

Source :

The Radio Control Show – Episode 161

This week’s episode features the E-Flite Blade 450x.  Remember to become a fan of The Radio Control Show Facebook Page, and become a follower on Twitter for the latest updates.

The Radio Control Show (Facebook)

@RCShow (Twitter)

Source :

Static Scale Hamilton Standard 3-blade propeller — Part 7

Well we finally finished this beautiful scale accessory. When it comes to scale RC planes, the biggest thing that ruins the scale looks of the plane is the smaller than scale flying propeller. Many warbird pilots will at least paint their props the correct color and add the yellow safety prop tips, but if you really want to get maximum attention, nothing beats a static scale (non-flying) propeller. I started this build-along series with the stock 3-blade Hamilton Standard kit from Nick Ziroli Plans and added a scratch built hub assembly for some added eye candy. Here’s how we put all the parts together.

(Above) There’s two ways to go here. Make your prop blades removable for easy storage and transport, or glue everything together. I glued everything as over time the removable blades wear and can get damaged. Gluing everything together also means you won’t lose anything.

The first thing to do is to drill into the base ends of the the blades with a 1/4-inch drill bit. Drill in about an inch or so and try to drill the hole straight along the blade’s centerline. Now cut three lengths of 1/4-inch birch dowels.

(Above) In the center of each blade socket, drill a matching hole in the wood core piece inside the hub assembly. This does not have to be extremely precise as you can enlarge a hole a little if the dowel does not match up perfectly.


(Above) On the back of each blade and its matching socket, place a mark so you can match each blade after you fit it and the support dowel into place.

(Above) Here you see each of the blades fitted into the hub. Make sure they all seat down firmly into the socket and that they are inline with the hub in side view. They should all set in the same disc plane.

(Above) Remove each blade and apply some 20 minute epoxy to the dowel, inside the socket and the base of the blade. Reinsert the blade into the hub and use the Ziroli kit supplied pitch gauge to set the angle of the blade. Now let dry before your move on to the other two blades. If any of the epoxy drips out of the joint, wipe it away with a paper towel and some alcohol. Let the whole prop assembly setup for a couple hours before moving.

(Above) Once the epoxy has completely set, you can mist on a couple light coats of matt or semi matt clear to seal everything. This will help the decals last longer and if you want to do some fine weathering with silver or dark gray and brown to pick out some of the details, the clear will seal the weathering in.  Let the clear coat dry over night in a dust free area or with a large box placed over it to protect the finish!

That’s it! The new 3-blade static scale propeller is ready to hang on my new giant scale Top Flite Corsair! Oh yea, I got to build it first! Stay tubed, I will post a photo of the finished assembly when the plane is done!

To see the entire prop build-along, click this link: 

Assembly Tip: Since the hole through the hub was enlarged to fit my DLE 55cc gas engine, the smaller hole and dowel in the nose cone don’t fit. I made a small top hat shaped plug to fit into the larger hole in the hub and slip into the smaller hole in the nose cone. This automatically centers the nose cone when I glued it into place.

Source :

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Static Scale Propeller — Part 6

I finally got back to my Static Scale 3-blade Hamilton Standard propeller for my upcoming Top Flite Corsair project, and I finished off the prop hub detailing! This is fairly easy but the results, though not museum scale quality, are more than acceptable for stand off scale. Here’s what I did.

(Above) this is where we left off, with the basic hub and nose cone smooth and ready to be painted. Of course you could go ahead and do just this much work, and go right to paint and it would look more than acceptable. But since I wanted to add just a little more “eye candy”, I added the prop hub assembly bolts and the blade adjustment bolts. I think these are what make the hub so interesting to look at. Note, that this is also a good time to ream out the center hole to properly match the output shaft of your airplane’s engine. I chucked my 10mm prop reamer in my drill press and used a slow speed to enlarge the hole. It should be a slip fit. Being the inside is wood, you do not want a very tight fit. If the humidity goes up, the wood will swell and make it difficult to slip it in place or remove it. A little loose here is a a plus.

(Above) Depending on the number of blades your hub has, you’ll add short bolts and tubes between each blade. For 3-blade hubs, there are two bolts and for a 4-blade hub, only one is in between each socket. I used 2-56 cap head screws and some brass tubing roughly the same diameter as the cap-head bolts. The assembly bolts and tubes are cut about 1/4-inch in length and the blade adjustment bolts and tubes are about 3/8-inch in length. I use the K&S Tubing cutter for this as shown above. I cut the tube section just a little shorter than the bolts so just one or two threads are exposed on the aft end.

(Above) Use a Dremel Moto-Tool with a flat cutoff disc, and cut two notches into the raised web to fit the hub assembly bolts and tubes. This is a cut and fit operation.

(Above) Place each bolt/tube in the notch and center it with the web. Use thin and Thick CA (I use ZAP) and glue them in place. Mist a little kicker over them and then add another application of thick CA and kicker. This fill in any voids and builds a small fillet around the tubes.  Now do this for the other two web sections. Before gluing the tubes to the hub, add a small drop of Zap to the bolt and glue it into the section of tube.

(Above) Now grind small flat spots on the sides of the sockets at the ends of the webs. This is where the longer blade adjustment bolts/tubes will be glued in place. Again carefully apply Zap CA and kicker to make a small fillet/glue joint to hold all the tubes in place. All the tubes should be straight and centered on the raised web.

(Above) After all the hub bolts / tubes have been glued in place, go over the entire hub assembly and double check for imperfections and cracks in the putty. Fill and sand as needed and then degrease the whole thing with some alcohol and let dry before painting. Here, the hub has been primed with some white enamel primer. No sanding is required if you did your homwork and everything is already smooth. The primer coat will also show any other defects requiring further attention. Apply a second and final coat of primer and let dry overnight.


(Above) Here’s the final result. I shot two coats of “buffing” silver onto the main hub assembly and after two days I lightly went over everything with a soft piece of Tee-shirt cloth. This really gives the silver a “cast aluminum” look. I also cleaned, primed and then shot with two coats of bright red onto the resin cast nose cone after I glued the hex bolt into the front. After everything has dried, a little weathering with some dark over spray to help pick out the details and it will be done.

Stay tuned for the next and final step of mating the blades to the hub! It all looks great now, but it doesn’t even compare to what the final appearence will look like when we hang our Hamilton Standard 3-blade prop on the front of the new Top Flite F4U Corsair!

(To see the whole build-along series thus far, click this link:

Source :

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Airopult: Just Plane Safe

Contributor Frank Tiano shares some news about a new plane-restraint device that makes starting your engine a safer and more relaxed experience. “Back in September 2010 Stuart Baker called me to discuss a new gizmo/tool, for RC model airplanes he was developing, and encouraged my opinion. After viewing some original concepts I told him I thought his idea was worthy of spending countless more hours of blood, sweat and tears, to perfect it. Almost two years later, in May 2012, Stuart offered me one of his production versions for my criticism, good or poor.

It’s called, simply, an Airopult. Like in Catapult, but it doesn’t launch Cats, it launches airplanes. Really? Well no, actually. It doesn’t really launch an airplane, but it does “allow” a pilot to safely restrain and hold tight a model airplane while he starts the engine. And then safely release it.

Hey, let’s face it; we all have fabricated some sort of restraining device or system at least once in our lives to hold back our model so we could be self-sufficient. Sometimes it was merely driving two pointed 2×2 stakes into the ground, just at the leading edge of the stabilizers. Or perhaps you incorporated the use of two massive screwdrivers, whacked into the dirt, at the same position, to hold back the airplane from surging forward as it started, especially if it started at full throttle for some reason! Or maybe you simply enlisted the help of an able bodied friend to crouch over your model and hold it for you, while unconsciously, but aggressively, driving the tail wheel down into the dirt, up to its axle, from all the down force exerted. But other than using a friend to hold the airplane, the other methods merely prevented the airplane from coming forward, at you, but did nothing to hold it from traveling rearward from the force applied when you hit the switch on your Megatron starter.

Well, for those of you tired of forgetting your favorite screwdriver back at the field or who hesitate to ask someone to hold onto your airplane because you don’t have a spare tailwheel assembly in the tool box, this new Airopult may be just the thing for you. Airopult utilizes 4 large Tent Pegs to hold its metal framework to the earth. If you didn’t know better you’d think it was welded to the ground somehow! Yes, it’s that tight. It has two restraining pegs at the front of the unit, adjustable of course, that hold the model from moving forward. It doesn’t matter if the landing gear is wing mounted like in a P-51 or fuselage mounted like in a Taylorcraft or Cub. If used per the instructions, which any occupant of the local zoo could understand, it will hold a rather large model; say anything having up to 100pounds of thrust! Preliminary tests were made by the Spanish IMAC champion with a 160cc engine pulling against the restraints at full throttle. Right now, the only limitation on the size unit I tested is the size of the airplane, in dimension. Airplanes up to 80 inch span seem to be accommodated easily. Anything larger needs to have the restraints placed at a further distance apart. Airopult PRO, due out at a theater near you soon, will address that issue. This unit weighs in at just a tad over 7 pounds so you’re not looking at some lightweight wannabe restraint system here!

Getting back to the review part of this article, upon inspection my initial impression was that the Airopult was well presented and packaged, and I noted not only how well engineered it was, but the exceptional quality of the materials. The unit is extremely easy to use. Place the Airopult on the ground, preferably a surface that allows you to pound in those Tent Stakes. Probably won’t work too well on Concrete or your wife’s hard wood floors. Anyway, then you just place the model so it rests against the vertical restraints. The rear “Release” clicks reassuring into place to indicate it is holding your model securely. After starting the engine, just step on the black release pad and two rear restraints collapse, forward, allowing the airplane to taxi straight ahead. OMG, could it get any easier? Or safer?

Bottom Line. From a cool viewpoint, everyone will wanna have one, and from a safety viewpoint everyone should be made to use one. I see a lot fewer, perhaps none, chopped body parts from forward jerking models with the use of an Airopult. That’s a good thing. You can go to for some pretty pictures, pricing and additional information, just in case you don’t believe me. Oh yeah, one last thing: Assuming you do get yourself one, paint your name on it and never leave it at the field, because if you do, chances are you may never see it again. It’s that cool.”

Source :